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Taking your car to Germany: re-registering, the HU — and money back from the Netherlands

As soon as you live in Germany, your car belongs on German plates — the route runs via insurance, inspection and the Zulassungsstelle, and the German road tax is a fraction of the Dutch one for an average petrol car. The good news almost nobody knows: on export the Netherlands refunds part of your BPM, provided the German registration is done within thirteen weeks.

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Written and checked by Auke on , against the sources at the bottom. Is something no longer right? Report it below and I'll fix it.

If you move to Germany, your car has to go on German plates. Re-registering it is very doable, and on the Dutch side there is even something to be gained from it.

Unlike with England or Australia, taking your car to Germany is not a sum with a surprising outcome:

  • You drive there yourself.
  • There is no import tax.
  • Your Dutch driving licence simply stays valid until it expires.

And the costs are modest:

  • The Zulassung, the registration of your car, costs from € 34.70 in Berlin.
  • The road tax is a fraction of the Dutch one for an average petrol car.
  • The bpm refund on export outweighs all of that, as long as you make the thirteen weeks.

When does it have to happen?

German law doesn't hang it on a number of weeks. It turns on the concept of regelmäßiger Standort, your car's regular location. Driving on a foreign registration is only allowed as long as that permanent base is not in Germany. The moment you emigrate, it is there by definition. So the car belongs on German plates.

The FZV, the German regulation on vehicle registration, does name a limit of "temporary": one year from crossing the border. That is for visitors, not for whoever registers as a resident. On top of that, the Kraftfahrzeugsteuergesetz, the German road tax act, makes a foreign vehicle liable to tax too, as long as it is in Germany.

So don't stretch it. Your Meldebestätigung, the proof of your registration with the municipality, tells every police officer exactly since when you have lived there.

The German side: four things, in this order

  1. Insurance first. A German car insurer gives you an eVB number: the electronic insurance confirmation. The Zulassungsstelle (the German vehicle registration office) wants to see it before anything at all is registered.
  2. The HU inspection (the "TÜV", officially Hauptuntersuchung). A valid German inspection is needed for registration; the Dutch APK doesn't fulfil that role. Berlin itself names one exception: if the car is so young that the first inspection isn't due yet, the HU is waived. For a passenger car that is three years from first registration. If your car has no European type approval, an expert report of at most eighteen months old is required, and that includes the inspection.
  3. The Zulassungsstelle. You bring:
    • your proof of identity plus a Meldebescheinigung, a separate proof of registration that you request at the Bürgeramt; ask the Zulassungsstelle whether the Meldebestätigung from your Anmeldung is also accepted (so the Anmeldung comes before the car)
    • the Dutch registration certificate and the old plates
    • the manufacturer's CoC document
    • the eVB number
    • the inspection certificate
    • a SEPA direct debit mandate for the road tax

No bank account for that mandate, no Zulassung. The registration itself costs € 34.70 in Berlin in the cheapest case; the plates you have made separately. 4. The Umweltplakette. This is the environmental sticker you need in almost every German city centre. It is linked to the registration, so after re-registering you buy a new one.

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What does the German road tax cost?

The Kfz-Steuer, the German road tax, is collected by customs via that SEPA mandate. The formula is on the Zoll's website. For a passenger car first registered from 2014:

Component Petrol Diesel
Base amount per started 100 cc of engine capacity € 2.00 € 9.50
CO2 part, per gram above 95 g/km € 2.00 (for first registration from 2021 rising in six steps to € 4.00 above 195 g/km) the same
Exempt CO2 share 95 g/km (110 for registration in 2012-2013, 120 up to and including 2011) the same

Two worked examples with that formula:

  • A 1,600 cc petrol car at 120 g/km, registered in 2018, pays 16 × € 2 plus 25 × € 2, together € 82 a year.
  • A 2,000 cc diesel at 130 g/km comes to 20 × € 9.50 plus 35 × € 2, together € 260.

For most cars that is far less than the Dutch motor vehicle tax. It is also the reason the diesel is the expensive choice in Germany.

The Dutch side: reclaim your BPM

This is where the money is. At the RDW you file an export notification (€ 12). You get:

  • a discharge certificate
  • the export document for the German registration
  • white export plates you may still drive on in the Netherlands for fourteen days

And then the part almost nobody knows. Because your car is being permanently registered in another EU country, you can reclaim the residual BPM from the Dutch Tax Administration. That is the non-depreciated part of the purchase tax that was once in the Dutch price. Depreciation follows an age table. For a car a few years old it quickly comes to hundreds to thousands of euros.

Three conditions to keep sharp:

  • The refund applies to cars registered in the Netherlands on or after 16 October 2006.
  • The car is not a salvage vehicle.
  • The German papers must show that it was registered within thirteen weeks of the export status.

Thirteen weeks, and the Zulassung can only happen after the Anmeldung. So don't file the RDW export notification in the Netherlands "to have it done": the clock starts on the day the RDW records the Export status, and the German registration waits for your Anmeldung, the insurance and the inspection. Plan the notification shortly before the German appointment.

What is left on balance is worked out for you by the cost indication for Germany: the inspection, the fees, the plates and the sticker against the bpm refund. For most cars a few years old the outcome is negative: re-registering leaves you with money.

In Vertrekklaar this is phase 3 of 5 of the journey, step 3.2: the same steps, but for your situation — in your order, tickable, and with the deadlines watched. See the whole journey to Germany or go straight to step 3.2 in the open plan.

Want to know more about this?

Then we'll send you the departure checklist for Germany, with every step in order, and five mails about the pitfalls and the real costs. You can switch it off at any time.

We use your address, and your departure date if you fill it in, only for the checklist, the guide and the mails after it. You can unsubscribe under every mail.

What this rests on

The facts in this article come from these official pages. Rules change. When in doubt, go by the source, not this article.

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